2 big car batteries and a reduction gear starter motor were acquired from the scrap yard today for just £30. i have a 29mm socket that needs welding on to the starter. I may meddle about with the starter to stop the solenoid from moving outwards when it's powered on. This could just cause problems. Then i'll need to construct some kind of handle so you can start the bike without spinning yourself round in circles. Some kind of trolley/cart will be needed to carry the two batteries around as they will be combined to produce 24volts. This is more that the starter was designed for but it's standard procedure to do it this way. The theory is it's better to over volt the motor than to have burn itself out struggling to turn the engine over. And lastly i need some huge, chunky cables to connect the things together.
The carbs are now on, so is the front sprocket and bearing
Wiring is one of the next things on the agenda. I will need to wire in the nitrous kit too as modifying it later would be a hassle so i've made a start at getting some of the switches in place. The tricky one is the WOT (or Wide Open Throttle) switch. I bought a 20amp relay and microswitch and have made a bracket that bolts securely to the carbs and positioned the microswitch on it so it's switched by the throttle mechanism, just as it reaches the wide open position.
ACU rules dictate all nitrous systems must only be operable at WOT position.
The nitrous will be dependent on at least 5 separate switches before it becomes active. The first will be the bikes main power on/off switch, followed by the lanyard kill switch, then a separate nitrous arming switch, followed by WOT switch and finally a clutch position switch. The last is so that no nitrous is supplied whilst the clutch is pulled in (like on the start line). Wiring all these, the nitrous solenoids themselves and the relay will need some planning!
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