This pic shows a chunk of the webbing in the sump cut away using an angle grinder to allow shift fork removal. I spent a lot of time degreasing and cleaning up afterwards to try and make sure no grinding dust remained.
The next picture shows the M6 threaded holes i made in the blind end of the shift fork shaft holes.As mentioned before, this should make it easier to remove the shafts should i need to.
A few other tweaks are required to help the auto work properly, 2 springs on the detent roller, which in itself was modified by welding up the roller so it didn't rotate, a small spring needs to be placed on the shift shaft to help throw the fork outwards. 
And lastly, the shift drum comes under a lot more stress than usual so the detent mechanism is locked with loctite to help prevent any movement.I put a new
camchain round the crankshaft, lined up the components, smeared some RTV silicone round the mating surfaces and closed the casings up.
Everything is then dabbled with loctite and torqued down.Before properly refitting the clutch basket i needed to check the play in the
basket is not excessive as i thought it was too sloppy last time, i also took a good look at the hub and decided to clean it up a little, as the clutch steels had created quite a lot of indents along it's edges. Some emery cloth wrapped around a piece of wood seems to work fine but it takes a long time to get a decent result. It should improve the smoothness of clutch however.
basket is not excessive as i thought it was too sloppy last time, i also took a good look at the hub and decided to clean it up a little, as the clutch steels had created quite a lot of indents along it's edges. Some emery cloth wrapped around a piece of wood seems to work fine but it takes a long time to get a decent result. It should improve the smoothness of clutch however.
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